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 ROUGHING IT  

From the sophisticated and civilized East, Twain traveled by stagecoach to San Francisco on the Overland Trail. His account of his trip in his book Roughing It makes 21st Century travel on Interstate Highways downright luxurious.

"One cannot make a heavy traveling trunk stand for 25 pounds of luggage," recounted Twain. "We had to make our selections in a hurry, putting our lawful 25 pounds in one valise. When everything was ready, we jumped into the stage, the driver cracked the whip, and we bolted away and left "the States" behind us."

When Mark Twain traversed the Trail, most of the land west of the Mississippi was wild territory. Civilization lay far behind. The Rocky Mountains was a paradise of outlaws and desperados. Violence was the rule. Force was the only recognized authority. Men settled common misunderstandings on the spot with a revolver or a knife.

From St. Joe to Sacramento by stage was nearly 1,900 miles. The trip usually took 15 days, but the time specified in mail contracts was 18 or 19 days to allow for winter storms and snows.

"We changed horses every ten miles, all day long, and fairly flew over the hard level road," wrote Twain. "The stage whirled along at a spanking gait, the breeze flapping its curtains and suspended coats in a most exhilarating way. ...We stretched our cramped legs full length on the mail sacks and gazed out through the windows across the wide wastes of green plains clad in a cool, powdery mist."

On his way through Rawlins, Wyoming, he noted, "The town reposed among low hills and prairie flats, and nothing in its setting would ever lift the stock of Eastman Kodak." Unfortunately, not much has changed in Rawlins since Twain’s visit.

Next: Stagecoach Stop

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